#1 on this list
Vision
Black Diamond
The Black Diamond Vision is engineered for climbers who want the low weight of an ultralight foam lid without sacrificing structural resilience. Built around an expanded polypropylene (EPP) body with a strategic expanded polystyrene (EPS) puck and a thin polycarbonate crown cap, the Vision offers full side and back protection while deflecting top-down rockfall. Review consensus ranks it among the most comfortable, well-ventilated helmets available, making it equally adept on sweltering multi-pitch trad routes or high-altitude alpine objectives. In real-world use, the helmet’s harness system stands out for its low profile and intuitive fit. The webbing adjusts smoothly and folds cleanly into the interior, allowing the helmet to pack down without snagging or breaking adjustment ratchets inside a loaded haul bag. Broad ventilation ports promote airflow on warm approaches, and the shell geometry sits low enough to ensure genuine rear-head coverage without obstructing the climber’s upward field of view. The trade-off comes down to cost and exposed foam durability. At around $160, it represents a substantial investment. While the polycarbonate top cap protects against overhead impacts, the exposed EPP foam along the perimeter can still suffer cosmetic gouges, dents, and abrasions if lashed carelessly to the outside of a heavy pack. **Highlights** - EPP foam construction with EPS puck and polycarbonate top cap - Low-profile suspension system that packs flat - Generous venting along sides and rear - Low-profile headlamp clips with elastic rear strap - Exceptional weight-to-protection ratio at 7.6 ounces **Watch-outs** - Exposed EPP foam on sides can pick up cosmetic dents - Premium price point compared to standard hardshell helmets
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#2 on this list
Sirocco
Petzl
The Petzl Sirocco redefined the ultralight climbing helmet category and remains the standard against which all fast-and-light head protection is measured. Weighing only 5.6 ounces in size small/medium, it is so light that climbers frequently forget they have it on. It is designed primarily for alpinists, long-route trad climbers, and weight-obsessed sport climbers pushing their personal limits on steep rock. Construction relies almost entirely on high-density EPP foam, topped with an ultra-thin polycarbonate crown plate that guards against overhead strikes. EPP possesses high elasticity, meaning it can absorb and recover from minor impacts that would permanently crush traditional EPS foam. The minimalist webbing harness uses thin straps and a magnetic or low-profile buckle, eliminating bulky plastic click-wheels. Large vents line the circumference, making this one of the coolest-running helmets in high heat. The trade-offs are specialized. The minimalist webbing adjustment system can be finicky to dial in with gloved hands, requiring patience at the base of a route. Additionally, while the EPP foam is remarkably durable, the bare foam aesthetic and lack of a full protective shell make it susceptible to cosmetic scratches, pack pressure damage, and heavy wear if mistreated in transit. **Highlights** - Unrivaled 5.6-ounce ultralight weight - Monoblock EPP construction with protective polycarbonate crown - Extensive open venting for superior heat regulation - Minimalist webbing harness packs down completely flat - Petzl enhanced top-and-side impact rating **Watch-outs** - Webbing suspension requires deliberate two-handed adjustment - Foam exterior easily incurs minor cosmetic scrapes
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Specs side by side
| Spec | Vision | Sirocco |
|---|---|---|
| Weight | 7.6 oz / 215 g (Size S/M) | 5.6 oz (size S/M) |
| Foam Material | EPP body with EPS crown puck | — |
| Shell Material | Polycarbonate crown plate | — |
| Adjustment Type | Low-profile webbing push-tabs | — |
| Retail Price | Around $160 | — |
| Headlamp Mounts | Front clips and rear elastic cord | — |
| Core Material | — | Expanded polypropylene (EPP) foam |
| Crown Protection | — | Polycarbonate top plate |
| Suspension Type | — | Minimalist adjustable webbing harness |
| Standard Price | — | Approximately $170 |
| Impact Certification | — | Petzl Top and Side Protection protocol |
What our reviewers liked and didn't
Vision
- Sub-8-ounce design significantly reduces neck strain on long routes
- EPP foam body absorbs repeated light impacts without cracking
- Webbing harness collapses flat inside the shell for easy packing
- Expansive vent cutouts deliver exceptional airflow in hot weather
- Exposed perimeter EPP foam scratches and dents easily against rough rock
- At roughly $160, it represents a hefty financial investment
Sirocco
- Exceptionally low weight of 5.6 ounces in size S/M
- Generous vent openings deliver class-leading heat dissipation
- EPP foam construction resists fracturing under minor impacts
- Flat-folding webbing harness stows cleanly without rigid bulk
- Exposed foam body is prone to cosmetic dents and abrasions
- Webbing adjustment requires two-handed tuning and lacks a wheel
- Premium price point reflects specialized ultralight engineering
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