#10 on this list
Momentum
Black Diamond
The Black Diamond Momentum is a modern entry-level climbing shoe engineered for gym climbers, beginners, and anyone seeking high breathability and immediate comfort. Its standout design element is an engineered knit upper, which replaces traditional leather with a lightweight, woven synthetic fabric that maximizes airflow and minimizes foot sweating during indoor workouts. The Momentum uses a flat, neutral profile that allows the toes to sit naturally without pinching. The dual hook-and-loop Velcro straps make taking the shoes off between boulder problems or belays quick and effortless. The molded rubber sole provides decent durability on gym plastic, and the microfiber lining in the front of the shoe provides a soft, forgiving initial feel that requires little to no break-in period. The key drawback of the Momentum is its synthetic upper: unlike leather, the knit fabric does not stretch or mold to the unique contours of your foot over time, meaning the fit you get out of the box is the permanent fit. The shoe also features a relatively thick, soft platform that lacks the stiffness needed for micro-edging on outdoor rock, as well as the downturn needed for steep routes. **Highlights** * Engineered knit upper provides exceptional breathability and temperature regulation * Neutral, flat last keeps toes comfortable with minimal break-in needed * Dual Velcro straps enable fast, hassle-free on-and-off transitions * Molded rubber outsole offers consistent durability for gym climbing * Vegan-friendly construction with synthetic materials throughout **Watch-outs** * Knit fabric does not stretch to mold to unique foot shapes over time * Lacks the platform stiffness required for sharp outdoor micro-edges * Low sensitivity and flat profile limit performance on overhanging terrain
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#1 on this list
Drago
Scarpa
The Scarpa Drago is engineered specifically for steep sport climbing, modern indoor bouldering, and overhanging terrain. Consistently praised across major testing publications for its softness and sensitivity, it functions almost like a second skin. If your climbing style revolves around steep caves, powerful toe-hooks, and standing on slick volumes, the Drago is built to maximize surface contact where stiffer shoes fail. Underfoot, the shoe features an ultra-thin midsole paired with soft, sticky rubber, giving the climber exceptional tactile feedback. You can feel precise subtleties in footholds and flex your toes into small pockets to pull your body inward. The massive rubber toe wrap provides an exceptional surface area for bicycle moves and inverted toe scums, while the single Velcro strap and elastic sleeve keep the midfoot securely locked in place without adding bulk. The trade-offs are directly tied to its specialty design. The Drago offers virtually no underfoot support for long, vertical pitches, meaning your foot musculature absorbs all the stress on micro-edges. Additionally, its soft rubber compound wears quickly on rough, sharp outdoor rock, making it an expensive option if used primarily outside on abrasive granite or sandstone. **Highlights** * Ultra-thin midsole provides exceptional sensitivity and tactile feedback * Aggressive downturn and high asymmetry pull the body into overhanging terrain * Extensive rubber toe patch delivers secure grip on steep toe hooks * Single hook-and-loop strap combined with an elastic sleeve creates a snug fit * Soft rubber compound molds easily to large indoor gym volumes **Watch-outs** * Rapid rubber wear when used heavily on abrasive outdoor rock * Lacks the platform stiffness needed for vertical face climbing and micro-edging * Premium price point relative to the lifespan of soft rubber
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Specs side by side
| Spec | Momentum | Drago |
|---|---|---|
| Profile | Neutral, flat last | Aggressive downturn, high asymmetry |
| Upper Material | Engineered knit synthetic | Microsuede synthetic |
| Closure | Dual Velcro hook-and-loop straps | Single hook-and-loop strap with elastic gusset |
| Lining | Front microfiber lining | — |
| Sole Type | Molded rubber outsole | — |
| Approximate Price | Around $130 | — |
| Midsole | — | Minimalist ultra-thin flex insert |
| Primary Focus | — | Steep bouldering and sport climbing |
| Approx. Price | — | $229 |
What our reviewers liked and didn't
Momentum
- Engineered knit upper provides class-leading breathability for gym climbing
- Flat, neutral last eliminates the painful break-in period of aggressive shoes
- Dual Velcro closures allow fast and effortless transitions between climbs
- Fully synthetic materials offer a reliable animal-free construction
- Knit upper will not stretch to mold around irregular foot contours over time
- Soft, rounded toe profile lacks the precision required for micro-edging outdoors
- Flat geometry makes pulling on steep, overhanging routes difficult
Drago
- Unmatched sensitivity and tactile feedback on tiny features
- Generous rubber coverage makes toe hooking exceptionally secure
- Synthetic upper maintains its shape with minimal stretching over time
- Aggressive downturn pulls hips close to overhanging walls
- Soft rubber wears quickly on coarse, abrasive outdoor rock
- Lacks underfoot support for long pitches or vertical edging
- Premium price point requires frequent resoling under heavy use
Prices change constantly — the figure shown is the last verified catalog price, and the buy buttons always go to the current listing.