Resources

Outdoor Skills

106 bite-size wilderness tutorials — the kind of things you want in your head before you need them. Each skill is one screen: three to six steps, a tip, and any real warnings.

24 skills

Field Skills
45 min
Find and process wild clay
Clay is everywhere along streambanks and cutbanks — you just have to test for it.
1. Look at cutbanks, riverbends, and exposed subsoil below the leaf layer.
2. Grab a handful, wet it, and roll a snake the thickness of a pencil.
3. If it bends around your finger without cracking, it's usable clay.
4. Slake: break it up in water, stir, let sit. Sand and gravel sink, clay stays suspended.
5. Pour off the milky water into a cloth-lined pit; let it drain until leather-hard, then wedge (knead) to remove air.
Tip: Test-fire a small pinch pot in a hot fire. If it survives without exploding, the clay's clean enough to use.
Andy Ward — Wild Clay for Beginners
Field Skills
30 min
Leave no trace of a fire
A properly disposed fire leaves the site indistinguishable from surrounding ground — good practice everywhere, not just in wilderness areas.
1. Burn all wood to fine ash — no charred chunks remaining.
2. Drown the ashes with water, stir, and drown again. Repeat until you can put your bare hand on the ash without any warmth.
3. Scatter the cold wet ashes broadly outside the camp area — never in one heap.
4. Return any rocks used for a ring to where you found them, dirty side down.
5. Sweep the area with a branch to disguise scorch marks and lift compressed vegetation.
Warning: The single most common cause of wildfire is an incompletely drowned fire. If you can feel any warmth in the ashes, it's not out.
Field Skills
20 min
Cache food safely in bear country
In bear country, every scented item — food, toothpaste, sunscreen — must be secured away from your sleeping area.
1. Use a certified bear canister where required, or an Ursack tied to a tree trunk.
2. For hangs, find a branch at least 15 feet up and 4 feet out from the trunk, with the food bag suspended 5 feet below the branch.
3. Use the counterbalance or PCT hang method so a bear cannot swat the bag down by yanking a rope.
4. Store food, cooking gear, and any scented items at least 100 yards downwind from your tent.
5. Never keep food, snack wrappers, or scented items in your tent, even in a pack.
Warning: A bear that gets a human food reward once will return, and that bear often ends up destroyed by wildlife officers. Bad food storage kills bears.
Field Skills
2 min
Estimate remaining daylight with your hand
The width of your fingers between the sun and the horizon gives a surprisingly accurate estimate of hours until sunset.
1. Extend your arm fully, palm facing you, fingers together and horizontal.
2. Align the bottom edge of your little finger with the horizon.
3. Count the fingers stacked between the horizon and the sun — each finger is approximately 15 minutes of daylight.
4. If the sun sits higher than one hand, stack your other hand on top and continue counting.
5. Round down to give yourself a margin for camp setup before dark.
Tip: Start setting up camp when you have two hands (about two hours) of daylight left. Rushing at dusk is when cuts, burns, and lost gear happen.
Field Skills
15 min
Cross a swift stream safely
Moving water is one of the leading causes of backcountry deaths. Cross rarely, carefully, and only when you have to.
1. Scout upstream and downstream for a wider, shallower spot; narrow spots are deep and fast.
2. Unclip your pack's hip belt and sternum strap so you can shed it fast if you fall.
3. Face upstream, use a stout pole for a third point of contact, and shuffle sideways rather than lifting your feet high.
4. Cross at an angle, moving downstream at about 45°, so the current helps push you across.
5. If you slip, go on your back with feet pointed downstream and use them to fend off rocks until you can swim to shore.
Warning: Water above the knees moving faster than a walking pace can knock down an adult. If the crossing looks marginal, wait for morning — mountain streams often drop overnight.
Field Skills
5 min
Estimate distance in the field
Quick tricks give you distance estimates good enough for route planning without a rangefinder.
1. Object size at arm's length: a person clearly recognizable but small is about 100 yards; head just a dot is about 200 yards; body only visible is about 300 yards.
2. Sound and light: count the seconds between a lightning flash and its thunder — every 5 seconds is roughly one mile.
3. Pace count: know your average pace over 100 meters (usually 60–70 double-paces for adults) and count as you walk.
4. Terrain multiplier: rough or steep terrain roughly doubles the time — not the distance — you'll need to cover it.
5. Verify with a map whenever you can. Estimation compounds error over long distances.
Tip: Practice on a known distance at home. Most people badly underestimate how far a mile really looks across open country.
Field Skills
10 min
Repair broken glasses in the field
A broken pair of glasses in the backcountry becomes a safety problem fast. A few field fixes get you home.
1. Broken nose bridge: wrap tightly with a strip of cloth tape or duct tape, splinted with a matchstick or twig for rigidity.
2. Popped-out lens: warm the frame slightly by a fire, gently press the lens back in place, cool it, and check by lightly tapping the frame.
3. Broken temple arm: splint with a stick or bent hairpin, tape or lash to remaining arm.
4. Missing screw: replace temporarily with a small wire from a twist tie or a very thin sliver of wood pushed through the hinge hole.
5. Cracked lens: cover the crack with clear tape on both sides to keep it holding shape until you can replace it.
Tip: Carry a spare pair of glasses (or your last prescription) in your pack for any multi-day trip. Duct tape is a fix; a spare is a solution.
Field Skills
8 min
Pitch a Diamond Tarp Shelter Using a Siberian Hitch
Learn to quickly set up a wind-resistant diamond tarp shelter using a continuous ridgeline tensioned with a Siberian Hitch, providing reliable protection.
1. Locate two sturdy anchor points (trees or stakes) approximately 10-15 feet apart, choosing the highest point for the windward side if possible.
2. Run your cordage between the two anchor points, securing one end with a fixed knot like a bowline and leaving sufficient slack for tensioning.
3. Form a Siberian Hitch loop with the working end of the cordage, passing it around the second anchor point and back through itself.
4. Attach the tarp's center grommet to the ridgeline using a carabiner or prusik knot, ensuring it slides freely.
5. Pull the free end of the Siberian Hitch to tension the ridgeline until taut, then stake out the two remaining tarp corners downwind, opposite the ridgeline attachment.
6. Adjust the ridgeline tension as needed by pulling the tag end of the Siberian Hitch, then secure the remaining two corners of the tarp to the ground or other anchors.
7. Inspect all anchor points and tension to ensure the tarp is stable and shedding water effectively.
Tip: For cold weather or rough terrain, carry extra cordage to create longer guylines, allowing more flexibility in anchor selection.
Warning: Always inspect trees for deadfall before anchoring any shelter.
Field Skills
10 min
Build a Green-Log Fire Reflector Wall
Direct campfire heat efficiently into your lean-to shelter. This skill involves constructing a safe, durable reflector wall using green hardwood logs, maximizing warmth on cold nights without risking structural integrity.
1. Identify and gather four to six green hardwood logs, roughly four inches in diameter and two to three feet long.
2. Clear a flat, level area for your fire and shelter, ensuring a safe distance (minimum three feet) between the fire bed and the planned wall location.
3. Drive two sturdy support posts (stakes or branches) firmly into the ground at an angle, leaning away from where the fire will be and spaced to match your log length.
4. Stack the green logs horizontally between the angled support posts, creating a solid, slightly backward-sloping wall.
5. Pack soil or rocks at the base of the wall to secure the lowest log and minimize air gaps.
6. Position your campfire directly in front of the reflector wall, ensuring radiant heat will strike the logs and bounce towards your shelter.
Tip: Orient your lean-to and reflector wall to take advantage of prevailing winds, allowing smoke to clear away from your shelter while heat is directed in.
Warning: Never leave a campfire unattended, especially with a reflector wall in place. Monitor log charring and heat transfer constantly. Have water or dirt ready to extinguish any sparks.
Field Skills
10 min
Compass Resection: Pinpoint Your Location Using Two Peaks
Use your compass and a topographic map to accurately determine your precise position in the field by taking back-bearings from two known geographic features.
1. Identify two distinct, named geographic features visible from your position that are also clearly marked on your topographic map.
2. Orient your map to true north using your compass's declination adjustment and magnetic north needle.
3. Take a precise magnetic bearing with your compass from your current location to the first identified feature.
4. Convert this magnetic bearing to a true bearing by applying magnetic declination in reverse (add declination for west, subtract for east).
5. Plot the reciprocal (back-bearing) of this true bearing on your map, drawing a line from the identified feature back towards your location.
6. Repeat steps three through five for the second identified feature.
7. Note the intersection point of the two plotted lines; this is your approximate current position on the map.
Tip: When possible, use features that are roughly 90 degrees apart from your position; this geometric arrangement provides the most accurate intersection.
Warning: Always carry a backup method of navigation, and know how to use it.
Field Skills
8 min
Tie a Prusik Friction Hitch for Ascending
Master the Prusik hitch to safely ascend a fixed rope, a fundamental skill for self-rescue, climbing, and emergency access.
1. Form a loop with your Prusik cord by tying its ends together with a double fisherman's knot, ensuring tails are trimmed.
2. Place the Prusik loop behind the main rope, creating two strands parallel to the rope.
3. Pass one side of the Prusik loop through the other side, around the main rope, making sure the bight wraps cleanly.
4. Repeat this pass twice more, ensuring each wrap lays neatly beside the previous one without crossing or kinking.
5. Dress the knot by gently tightening each wrap, ensuring they are snug and evenly spaced along the main rope.
6. Test the hitch by applying weight to the loop: it should grip the main rope firmly.
7. Release the hitch by sliding the wraps upwards, which should free it to move along the main line.
Tip: To prevent the Prusik from 'walking' (creeping upwards or downwards) when unweighted, ensure the wraps are snug but not overtightened.
Warning: Always use a Prusik cord with a significantly smaller diameter than the main rope to achieve effective friction.
Field Skills
10 min
Rig a Basket-Weave Ankle Taping for Field Evacuation
Learn to apply a stabilizing basket-weave ankle tape for a severe sprain, enabling self-evacuation over challenging terrain. This technique provides crucial support.
1. Position the casualty's foot at a 90-degree angle to the lower leg.
2. Apply two or three adhesive anchors around the lower leg, above the ankle bone, without overlapping.
3. Place vertical stirrup strips starting from the inside anchor, passing under the heel, and finishing on the outside anchor.
4. Apply horizontal horseshoe strips, beginning on the inside of the foot, wrapping under the arch, and ending on the outside.
5. Alternate stirrup and horseshoe strips, overlapping each by half, moving towards the forefoot, then back towards the heel, creating a weave.
6. Secure all loose ends and reinforce the top with additional anchor strips, ensuring the tape is snug but not constricting.
Tip: If available, applying pre-wrap directly to the skin before tape can prevent chafing and make tape removal less painful.
Warning: Ensure circulation is not compromised after taping; check for numbness or coldness.
Field Skills
10 min
Make Char Cloth in a Metal Tin for Spark-Based Fire Starting
Convert 100% cotton fabric into char cloth using a metal tin and a fire. This crucial tinder catches sparks from flint and steel instantly.
1. Cut 100% cotton fabric into 1x1 inch squares or strips, ensuring all fabric is natural fiber.
2. Punch a small nail-sized hole into the center of the tin's lid to create a vent.
3. Place the cotton pieces loosely into the tin and secure the lid tightly.
4. Set the tin directly onto hot coals from a hardwood fire.
5. Observe the tin; smoke and flame will emit from the vent hole.
6. Once the flame extinguishes and smoke ceases, carefully remove the tin from the coals.
7. Allow the tin to cool completely before opening it to inspect your char cloth.
Tip: Save small scraps of denim from old jeans; their weave often creates robust char cloth that lasts longer.
Warning: Always handle hot tins with tongs or gloves to prevent burns.
Field Skills
8 min
Drain and Dress a Deep Heel Blister
Effectively manage a deep, painful heel blister in the field by draining it with a sterile needle and applying a durable, long-lasting dressing.
1. Clean the blister and surrounding skin with an antiseptic wipe or soap and water.
2. Sterilize a fine-gauge needle by passing the tip through a flame until it glows red, then allow it to cool.
3. Carefully pierce the blister at its lowest margin, parallel to the skin surface, to create a drainage port.
4. Gently press out the fluid from the blister, leaving the skin roof intact.
5. Apply an antiseptic ointment or skin-prep pad to the drained blister.
6. Cover the blister with a non-adhesive pad, then firmly apply Leukotape P, extending it well beyond the blister margins and smoothing it completely.
Tip: When applying Leukotape P, round the corners of the tape to prevent snagging and peeling, significantly increasing its wear time.
Warning: Never drain a blister if you suspect an infection (pus, fever, spreading redness).
Field Skills
8 min
Field-Draining a Deep Heel Blister
Effectively drain and dress a deep, painful heel blister to prevent infection and allow continued activity, using a needle and robust tape.
1. Clean the blister area thoroughly with an antiseptic wipe or soap and water.
2. Sterilize a needle by holding its tip in a flame until red hot, then allow it to cool completely.
3. Carefully pierce the blister at its lower margin, just inside the intact skin, allowing fluid to drain.
4. Gently press on the blister from the top towards the puncture site to encourage full drainage, keeping the skin roof flat.
5. Apply a clean, non-adhesive dressing or hydrocolloid patch over the drained blister.
6. Anchor the dressing securely with strips of Leukotape P, covering the entire blister area and extending onto healthy skin.
Tip: After draining, apply tincture of benzoin to the skin around the blister, let it dry tacky, then apply tape for superior adhesion in wet or sweaty conditions.
Warning: Never drain a blister if you suspect it's already infected (redness, pus, warmth, fever).
Field Skills
10 min
Cedar Bow Drill Fire: Hearth Board & Spindle Ignition
Master the cedar bow drill: carve matching friction components from dry wood, generate a hot ember from wood dust, and ignite tinder.
1. Select and prepare dry cedar wood for the spindle and hearth board.
2. Fashion a secure handhold, a strong bow, and a sturdy cord for the drill.
3. Cut a small notch into the hearth board, slightly off-center from the spindle's drilling point.
4. Position the spindle in the hearth board, apply steady downward pressure with the handhold, and saw the bow to spin the spindle.
5. Continue drilling until a dark, smoking wood dust pile forms at the notch.
6. Carefully transfer the glowing ember from the dust pile into a prepared tinder bundle.
7. Gently blow on the tinder bundle, increasing airflow until it ignites into flame.
Tip: Match spindle and hearth board wood from the same piece of cedar when possible; this ensures similar density and optimal friction performance.
Warning: Always handle sharp tools with extreme caution.
Field Skills
10 min
Boil Water in a Stainless Steel Bottle Over Coals
Learn how to safely boil water for purification using a single-wall stainless steel bottle suspended directly over hot coals, a fundamental skill for wilderness water safety.
1. Locate or build a safe, contained fire with a good bed of coals, not active flames.
2. Fill your single-wall stainless steel bottle with water, leaving an inch of headspace.
3. Attach a sturdy wire, cordage, or a metal hanger to the bottle's neck for suspension.
4. Suspend the bottle directly over the hottest part of the coal bed, ensuring it is stable and level.
5. Monitor the bottle for signs of boiling; a rolling boil indicates purification.
6. Carefully remove the bottle from the heat using a stick or glove and allow it to cool before handling.
7. Pour the purified water into a clean container, exercising caution against spills.
Tip: Always collect water from the cleanest source available, even if planning to boil; this reduces sediment and improves taste.
Warning: Never use insulated (double-wall) stainless steel bottles for direct heating; they can build pressure and explode.
Field Skills
10 min
Calibrate Your Pace Count and Track Distance with Ranger Beads
Learn to accurately calibrate your 100-meter pace count across diverse terrain and use ranger beads to track distance, essential for navigation in challenging conditions.
1. Identify a known, measurable 100-meter course in varied terrain, ideally marked or easily measured with a long tape.
2. Walk the 100-meter course at your natural, sustained hiking pace, counting every time a specific foot (e.g., your left foot) touches the ground.
3. Record your pace count for this 100-meter segment, then repeat the process several times to find an average pace count for that terrain type.
4. Repeat the calibration for different terrain types you expect to encounter, such as uphill, downhill, dense brush, or open flat ground.
5. Assemble your ranger beads: 9 lower beads representing 100-meter increments, and 4 upper beads representing 1000-meter (kilometer) increments.
6. Begin navigating, sliding one lower bead down for every 100 meters you cover (one pace count), and slide one upper bead down each time all 9 lower beads are moved.
7. Reset the beads by pushing them back to their original position once you reach your destination or complete a leg of your journey, noting the total distance.
Tip: To reduce mental load, make a habit of moving your bead immediately after completing your 100-meter pace count, possibly by associating it with a quick mental check of your surroundings.
Warning: Mistakes in calibration or counting can lead to significant navigational errors; practice diligently.
Field Skills
10 min
Treat Stage One Hypothermia with Active Re-Warming
Effectively treat mild hypothermia by applying external heat sources to the patient's core and insulating them from further heat loss.
1. Assess the patient for signs of Stage One Hypothermia, including shivering, confusion, and impaired coordination.
2. Remove all wet clothing and replace with dry layers, including headwear and gloves.
3. Create a vapor barrier around the patient, such as a large plastic bag or emergency blanket, to trap body heat and block wind.
4. Prepare safe heat sources, like water bottles filled with warm (not boiling) water, chemical heat packs, or heated rocks wrapped in multiple layers of cloth.
5. Place prepared heat sources gently against the patient's torso, specifically in the armpits and groin areas.
6. Insulate the patient further by adding more dry layers, a sleeping bag, or an emergency bivy over the vapor barrier.
7. Continuously monitor the patient's mental status, shivering intensity, and overall comfort, adjusting heat sources as needed.
Tip: Always carry a dedicated emergency bivy or large plastic trash bag for its vapor barrier properties; it's a lightweight, high-impact item for cold emergencies.
Warning: Hypothermia can progress rapidly. If the patient's condition does not improve or worsens, assume severe hypothermia and seek immediate professional medical attention.
Field Skills
8 min
Adjust Declination and Orient a Map in the Field
Learn to accurately set magnetic declination on your compass and orient a map to true north, crucial for precise navigation in the field.
1. Locate the magnetic declination for your current area on your map's legend or a reliable online source.
2. Adjust your compass's declination setting ring to match the value and direction (east or west) you found.
3. Place the compass flat on your map, aligning its edge or baseplate with the map's true north/south grid lines.
4. Slowly rotate the map and compass together until the compass needle aligns perfectly within the orienting arrow on the compass baseplate.
5. Confirm the map's features now visually align with the physical terrain around you.
6. Take a bearing from a known distant landmark on the map, then re-verify that the compass bearing matches the landmark's actual direction.
Tip: Some maps provide a diagram showing the relationship between true, magnetic, and grid north. Use this to double-check your declination setting.
Warning: Be mindful of local magnetic anomalies caused by metal ore deposits or power lines, which can cause compass errors.
Field Skills
8 min
Tie a Taut-Line Hitch for High-Wind Tarp Guylines
Learn to reliably tension tarp guylines in windy conditions using only rope and a Taut-Line Hitch, ensuring your shelter remains secure.
1. Anchor one end of your guyline to your tarp's tie-out point, then extend the line to your anchor point and wrap it around once.
2. Form a loose loop with the working end of the rope, passing it under the standing part.
3. Make two full wraps with the working end around the standing part inside this first loop, pulling them snug.
4. Bring the working end back over the standing part and make one more wrap around the standing part, outside the initial two wraps, pulling it snug.
5. Tighten the new knot by pulling on the working end, then slide the entire knot along the standing part to adjust tension.
6. Secure the working end with a simple half hitch or stopper knot against the main knot for added security under extreme load.
Tip: When setting up in extreme wind, pre-tie your Taut-Line Hitch on the line near your tarp, then quickly secure the loose end to the anchor.
Warning: Improperly secured tarps can become dangerous projectiles in high winds.
Field Skills
8 min
Carve Feather Sticks for Wet Birch Fire
Master precise knife angles to create fine, ignitable wood curls from damp birch, ensuring a successful fire start even in challenging, wet conditions.
1. Select a piece of dead, dry standing birch branch, ideally one that snapped cleanly or is suspended off the ground.
2. Baton or split the branch to expose the drier inner wood, aiming for a section roughly pencil-thick.
3. Hold the wood firmly against a stable surface or in a secure grip away from your body.
4. Using a sharp knife, start near the end of the wood and make shallow, consistent slicing cuts at a 15-20 degree angle.
5. Maintain the angle and pressure to peel back thin, continuous curls that remain attached to the stick.
6. Work around the stick, covering its surface with fine, delicate curls until a substantial "feathered" section is created.
Tip: In very wet conditions, consider harvesting a larger piece of wood, splitting it, and carving your feather stick from the protected inner surface right before ignition.
Warning: Never use a carving technique that directs the blade towards your body. Maintain situational awareness.
Field Skills
8 min
Scrape Birch Bark for Ferro Rod Tinder in Wet Conditions
Learn to reliably prepare paper-thin birch bark dust, the ideal tinder to ignite with a ferro rod even when other materials are damp.
1. Identify a suitable birch tree, prioritizing fallen branches or dead standing trees to minimize impact.
2. Carefully peel a manageable section of outer bark, avoiding cutting deep into the tree's cambium.
3. Using the spine of your knife, scrape the inner surface of the bark, collecting the fine fibers onto a dry surface.
4. Continue scraping until you have a small pile of fluffy, dust-like material, free from larger pieces.
5. Form the scraped material into a loose, airy nest, approximately the size of a golf ball.
6. Place the tinder nest on a dry platform, such as a piece of bark or stone, slightly elevated from the damp ground.
Tip: Even in very wet conditions, the underside of a fallen birch log often has dry bark suitable for this technique.
Warning: Always handle knives with care. Birch trees are protected in some areas; understand local regulations.
Field Skills
8 min
Baton Hardwood Logs for Dry Core Wood
Efficiently split hardwood logs to access dry inner wood, even when the exterior is wet, using a full-tang knife and a sturdy baton.
1. Select a full-tang fixed-blade knife and a sturdy baton.
2. Place the log on a stable, flat surface, preferably a larger log or stump.
3. Position the knife blade across the top of the log, aligning it with a natural crack or the wood grain.
4. Hold the knife handle firmly with one hand and the baton with the other.
5. Strike the spine of the knife repeatedly and firmly with the baton, driving the blade down through the log.
6. Once the log splits, remove the knife and process the newly exposed dry wood as needed.
Tip: For extremely dense wood, apply steady downward pressure on the knife handle while striking to help guide the blade.
Warning: Never strike the blade near your hands or fingers.

Educational reference only. Wilderness conditions change fast — practice in low-stakes settings, take a certified wilderness first-aid course, and confirm regional regulations (fire, fishing, foraging, snaring) before you rely on any of these skills in the field.